Original message
| bcol7473
 |  "york furnace issues"
, posted Wed 14 Feb 22:55  
OK, OK, I am a newbie and i see this topic has been beet to death but. I am renting a building that has a outdoor your furnace/air-conditioned I do not have the model number with me right now but I will get it tomorrow. Ok when I rented the building the heat would work on and off. After reading this forum I pulled it apart found a big mouse nest all around the burner, cleaned it all out and reset the push button limit switch. All worked well for a month. Let me start by saying I am in a town that has been all over the national news for getting 8' plus of snow in the last weeks so needless to say the thing got buried. I figured it was just blocked up with snow so tonight i dug it all out, made sure there was a clear path for intake and exhaust air cleaned some snow out of it and tried to get it fired up. NOTHING. I turned the power on and off a bunch of times, re set the one limit switch a bunch of times that did the trick when I found the mouse nest, still nothing. freezing my nads off I went on to pull the panel with the actual blower fan that blows the air through the building, when I had it running and got the panel near the opening it had a lot of suction, wanted to pull the panel to the unit. I made sure the filters were clear but when i took them off there was a door there that was closed, so I assume it was pulling all the air from the cold air returns inside the building. I unburied most of the unit, but i left some snow around the AC part. I removed the snow about 1/2 way down the unit and all of it from the top on the AC side. Any suggestions. I know its sad, I can build jet engines but I can't fix my furnace. LOL thanks in advance guys!
THIS SNOW SUCKS
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Replies:
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| Antonetz
| "Re(1):york furnace issues" , posted Thu 15 Feb 09:29
it is possable that the combustion blower went out when it was covered with snow, to check this, 1st does it run & still no heat, if it doesn't run, there should be a wire connector within a foot of fan leads, pull apart & see if 115v. is present at this point. ifnot check your control wires for possable damage, if there is power at this point 115v. at fan leads, check for continuity with a ohm meter on the motor leads at motor, checking for resistance of motor windings, if none ,replace, if fan operates, check for failure flashes at ciruit board, the flashes should direct you to the source of the problem, if burners light & immediatly go out, pull & clean flame senser, if no flame & you have comustion fan, check comb. safety pressure switch,by either temp. jumpering &\or voltage meter, if control is good, remove jumper & check glow ignitor for cracks, to check this either unplug & ohm. should show continuity or pull & visually inspect. this should get you started twards solving your problem. if you don't understand this proceedure, quit trying to build a rocket out of your only source of heat & call an h.v.a.c. mechanic. good luck. let me know. antonetz r.p.
R.P.Antonetz
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| | bcol7473
| "Re(2):york furnace issues" , posted Fri 16 Feb 02:45
ok so I took your advise after messing with it today I called a so called pro in. I explained what it was doing and he took a meter reading off a few wires and said I know what the problem is. He goes back to the van and gets out a new control box. From everything I have read this is normally not what is causing this problem. I asked him how he new it was a bad control box and his response was "what are you trying to learn my job" on any normal day I would have told this guy to stop what he is doing and leave, but it was -4 outside and we were working on this unit outside. I figured all things being the same if it was no the control box it would not fix the problem. so he is putting it in and i see him pull one of the wires off of the resetable limit switch. I ask him is there another limit switch and he replies NO. He keeps putting the old wires onto the new control box but then i notice him put a red wire onto the side of the limit switch he had removed a white wire from, I said something to him and he did not ans me. He then cut a few wires and wire nutted them together. we turn the unit on and it works fine. I again ask why the limit switch is hooked up different and he responds there are 2 redundant systems one limit switch and on centrifugal switch, he said he cut out the centrifugal switch and if it over heated the limit switch would shut it down. This did not sit well with me,but it was so clod he grabbed his stuff, including my old "bad" control box and was on his way before i could even ask for the old one back. I am almost 100% sure I was screwed and it was just the centrifugal switch not working right. So now i have a new control box i probably did not need and my furnace has a bypasses safety switch. This does not make me comfortable. I want to call him and say listen I am not comfortable with the centrifugal switch bypasses, it is there for a reason and I want it hooked up. Is that a reasonable thing to do? should I be charged a sec. service all for something that was not done right the first time?
THIS SNOW SUCKS
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| | Antonetz
| "Re(3):york furnace issues" , posted Fri 16 Feb 12:19:
i,am not positive, but i think there may be a law that requires to leave old parts, unless customer o.k's dispoal. you may have attempted to reinstall the old part & see if your heat still worked, thus proving, his diagnosis wrong. if what you call a centrifical switch is the combustion blower switch & it is no longer protecting your unit if you have a combustion fan failure & could cause a bad case of flame roll out & perminetly damage unit. i would think a call to the owner of the co. may be in order.
R.P.Antonetz
[this message was edited by Antonetz on Fri 16 Feb 12:20] |
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