Original message
| Elthesh
 |  "New thermostat problem"
, posted Wed 9 Jan 18:23:  
I'm having a problem with a brand new out of the box Honeywell VisionPro TH8321U1006. I've replaced quite a few thermostats over the years doing building maintenance for apartment complexes, but never with anything this "new/advanced".
The wires coming out of the wall to the original White-Rogers manual thermostat are
Yellow wire to Y terminal(which has terminal/jumper leading somewhere on the underside of the old t-tstat I should have looked so I can properly say where it's going)
Green wire to G terminal
White wire to W terminal
Red wire to RH terminal(with an existing jumper between RH and RC)
Going by the installation guide and previous experience, I installed the wires on the new Honeywell as follows
Yellow to Y
White to W
Green to G
Red to Rc(which already had a jumper between Rc and R)
(There is a 5th wire coming out of the wall, looks very dark blue, but is wrapped/coiled around the other 4 wires at the base before they enter the wire jacket and hasn't been used/wasn't used on the old t-stat)
After installing batteries in the Honeywell, plugging it all in, setting a temperture lower than the room temp, changing to cooling, etc, etc... I wait for the compressor protection to time out(Says Waiting under the set temp), it "clicks" and says Cooling On(I think that's what it says) and nothing happens. Trying to turn the fan itself on automatically gets absolutely nothing either. Turning heat on and setting correct temps gets nothing. Reinstalling the old t-stat everything works as it should. Any idea what is going on?
Here are 2 fairly large, in file size and actual visual size, photos of the old and new setups. In the new setup, I have the red connected to the R instead of Rc as I was testing both terminals, although the jumper is still connected. Also, I have not yet clipped the ends of the wires due to very limited length from the wall and the need to put them back on the old terminals for the time being.
Be forewarned, the files are large and if you are on dial up they are about 1 meg each.
http://bellsouthpwp.net/E/l/Elthesh/img_0269.jpg
http://bellsouthpwp.net/E/l/Elthesh/img_0265.jpg
Edited to add that this is a split system with an electric heating system. I also don't know if the blue/dark blue unused wire is usable and if it is a common wire that would suplly full time power to the new t-stat.
[this message was edited by Elthesh on Wed 9 Jan 19:12] |
| Replies:
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| pbservano
| "Re(1):New thermostat problem" , posted Wed 9 Jan 22:05
If this is a heat pump. Looks like you're missing an orange wire that normally goes to the outside coil for the reversing valve. Also some thermostat uses a common wire to operate. Check if the blue wire is connected to the common side of the indoor coil of the air handler. It would also help if you can provide the model number and type of heat pump system that you have. Do a search on this forum and look for the drawing that one of the member posted here for a heat pump system, showing split system with thermostat wiring configuration.
US NAVY RETIRED
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| | Elthesh
| "Re(2):New thermostat problem" , posted Wed 9 Jan 22:23
I'm fairly positive that this isn't a heat pump system and is most likely some sort of heat strip system. As it only gets used for a few days out of the year, when it it first turned on after a year of being off, you can smell the dust burning off the strip for a few minutes. Also, heat works even when there is no freon in the ac system. This is very far south in Florida, so a heat pump system probably wouldn't have been installed anyway.
Tomorrow I will check to see if they bothered to connect the blue wire 9 years ago when they replaced the air handler. If so, I may have 24ac on that blue wire. Also, the unit on the roof is brand new, a couple weeks old. It is a Gibson/Nordyne/whatever brand they want to call it. Model on the case is JS5BD018KA.
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| | Houston204
| "Re(3):New thermostat problem" , posted Wed 9 Jan 22:27
You have it wired correctly, it's not a heat pump.
"Tip of the Day" Remember to remove power first.
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| | Houston204
| "Re(2):New thermostat problem" , posted Wed 9 Jan 22:19:
Verify that your metal pins that connect the subbase to your thermostat are not bent, and option 170 = 1, option 180 = 1.
If the problem persists, return it and get a new one. I think the Visionpro thermostats are the best general purpose thermostat on the market today.
They are made by mere mortals, some will likely fail.
"Tip of the Day" Remember to remove power first.
[this message was edited by Houston204 on Wed 9 Jan 22:25] |
| | Elthesh
| "Re(3):New thermostat problem" , posted Thu 10 Jan 00:01
I just checked the unit and the place where there should be a pin (RC pin, all others are there)attached to the circuit board on the LCD/front part of the unit which plugs into the baseplate(pin is in most upper right position, not the Y2 position, but RC)and in the photo I provided is not there. You can see where it should be on the board, but it is not there. I can't tell if it was ever there or if it should even be there. Can you tell me if this pin is necessary or if it is supposed to be this way?
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| | Elthesh
| "Re(4):New thermostat problem" , posted Thu 10 Jan 00:12
Nevermind, the pin for the W terminal is broken off as well. The others seem to be on there strong, but the other 2 must be causing the problem. Gonna go exchange this tomorrow.
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| | dwcaveney
| "Re(3):New thermostat problem" , posted Wed 9 Jan 23:20:
Orange or blue wire. power+pump= forward or no power+pump= forward to the 2nd. Which one? Your t-stat has a set-up option. The T-stat is capable of a dual in line 4 pin solution.(hard wired and DIP optioned)This might not help you, but that is the theory. On some Honeywells the O/B=W for heat pumps. They will operate with 4 wires.
[this message was edited by dwcaveney on Wed 9 Jan 23:27] |
| | Elthesh
| "Re(4):New thermostat problem" , posted Thu 17 Jan 13:23
Just received my replacement unit today. The new one works great and all the pins are there, of course. I notice a sever difference in temperature readinds between the 30+ year old unit and the new one. Old one will read 68 while the new one reads 74(same as the broken unit as the display ran on batteries so I ran a check then too). At least I'll be able to get an accurate reading of the temperature now along with humidity and such.
I was unable to confirm if the unused blue wire was attached to the common side for full time 24v power. There were way too many wires in the handler with most being extended/connected one or more times, and sometimes changing colors at the wire nuts. I found what I thought to be the thermostat wires coming in however, the wires were red, blue, green, white and really fat blue wire. No yellow wire which is at the thermostat. I attempted to take a reading at the wires at the thermostat, but didn't know if that would work. I only got a reading off the red wire and that was only the needle zeroing out at 0. The other wires, including the blue gave me nothing.
I took a few photos of the wires and wiring diagram inside the handler so I could have a better view on my computer and so I could close up the handler. Looking over the photos I still can't make heads or tails of it, so either the blue is conencted or it is and I just can't figure it out. I did NOT attempt to connect it at the thermostat as I had visions of frying something if I were to connect something that shouldn't be. Also, the wire at the thermostat is an extremely dark blue and all the ones in the handler were a much brighter blue, so I couldn't even go by that.
If anyone has any suggestions or wants to see the photos, let me know and I'll put them up. Otherwise I'll just leave it as is and let it run on battery power.
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