Cold nights in Toronto (continued) - http://www.hvacmechanic.com/ Forums

Original message

SStoronto

142.221.110.4

"Cold nights in Toronto (continued)" , posted Thu 17 Nov 17:24

"Re(2):Cold nights in Toronto" , posted Thu 17 Nov 11:23

quote: If your pressure switch is not closing, you could have:1. A clogged condesate drain2.improprly pitched exaust piping3.a blocked intake pipe.The pressure switch checks the venting system beff ...

1. How do I check the condensate drain? I already blew air into it to make sure water comes out? I also wiped whatever I could with my finger? Other than that, what to do, specifically?

2. With improperly pitched piping, will the furnace work at all? Because it has been working for three years. I know the condensate piping flows "downhill."

3. How do I check the intake pipe? Is this a hose?

Replies:

tomme44

66.188.219.19

"Re(1):Cold nights in Toronto (continued)" , posted Thu 17 Nov 18:50

The intake pipe is either two or three inch pvc bringing fresh air into the combustion chamber or to where the burners are. It is not the one that is connected to the draft motor. If you can, disconnect it from the furnace to see if that is the problem. I dont glue them to the furnace for that reason. Also take off the hoses that go to the pressure switch and blow through them. Very rarely does a pressure switch go bad.

tomme

moondog

24.118.198.197

"Re(2):Cold nights in Toronto (continued)" , posted Fri 18 Nov 07:21

In your other post you said:

I even sucked out the excess water from the combustion air inducer that does not turn on when power cycling the furnace. Now the comb. air inducer motor does sound healthier when it tries to start (no more gurgling), but it fails to remain on.

Since you have had this off, remove the bagpipe from the inducer motor housing and turn on the unit. The inducer should run, is water still in there? With this off, the unit should start up and run, let it go a few moments and then put it back on. Will the unit run?

SStoronto

69.193.51.251

"Re(3):Cold nights in Toronto (continued)" , posted Fri 18 Nov 14:17

quote:
In your other post you said:I even sucked out the excess water from the combustion air inducer that does not turn on when power cycling the furnace. Now the comb. air inducer motor does sound heal ...

I ran the furnace with the "rubber bagpipe" off. The inducer motor tries to start and quickly shuts off. There is no more gurgling sound, and it seems to me that all the water has been removed. I cannot remove the inducer or inducer motor, so I can't verify for sure, but by blowing into and out of a rubber hose implies nothing but air remaining inside.

The pressure switch hoses are confirmed to be clear. Therefore, does this necessarily imply that the inducer motor needs to be replaced? What else could be wrong?
How much should a replacement inducer motor cost?

Thanks for your help.

By the way, it's freezing today (LOL).

SStoronto

69.193.51.251

"Re(4):Cold nights in Toronto (continued)" , posted Fri 18 Nov 19:33

So... my wife called the furnace repair dude before I could resolve the issues myself... someone tell me that I'm not the only guy stuff like happens to!

Anyway, the problem was not attributable to intake air, nor was it water in the inducer, nor a faulty inducer motor... the limit switch that had tripped was not even the pressure switch, but the improper air-flow switch.

The filter was fine, but a couple of floor registers too many were blocked off upstairs (as we have two unused bedrooms), causing turbulence in the ducts, causing the furnace to run too hot.

This limit switch that tripped, according to the technician, should be reset only by a licensed technician, due to a safety issue. No doubt that this is a good thing, given there are guys like me out there, learning lessons the hard way.

One "benjamin" later, I learned an expensive lesson. So much for frugal living by trying to save on heating costs.

Thanks for your help, guys. Much appreciated.
At a risk of saying this rather early, happy holidays!