Honeywell CT3611 non heat oump wiring - http://www.hvacmechanic.com/ Forums
Original message
| darrink
 |  "Honeywell CT3611 non heat oump wiring"
, posted Mon 3 Mar 16:42:  
I need help wiring a Honeywell CT3611 in place of a Hunter 44550. The system is not a heat pump system, but rather a convention central air and heat unit with electric heating. This is what I have:
Hunter:
Green wire to G terminal
White wire to W terminal
Red wire to RC terminal and jumpered to RH Terminal
Yellow wire to Y/Y1 Terminal.
Honeywell:
Green wire to G terminal
White wire to W1 terminal
Red wire to R terminal
Yellow wire to Y terminal
Brown wire to C terminal (This is the common wire from the transformer in the attic unit.)
The jumper is removed from W1 and Y
The heating elements seem to be cycling on and off, but the fan blows constantly until the set point is reached. Then the elements turn off and the fan blows for a short time.
I called Honeywell support, but that was a joke.
If this thermostat will not work with a conventional unit, just let me know. I'm not sure why it wouldn't work, so if it will not please try to explain why so that I can feel a little better about Honeywell's technical support in India.
Thanks,
Darrin
[this message was edited by darrink on Mon 3 Mar 16:49] |
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| darrink
| "Re(1):Honeywell CT3611 non heat oump wiring" , posted Mon 3 Mar 19:06
Thanks for the response. So you are saying that the elements should stay on the entire time the thermostat is calling for heat, and then turn off when the set point is reached, at which time the fan should continue to blow for a short time. Could you give me idea of how hot the air should blow coming out of the registers? I have measured it with a Raytek at 102*F, and as low as 88*F all in the same heating cycle. The thermostat is set at 74*f and is reading the temperature in the house at 72*F. I finally turned it off after about 1/2 hour of running and no change in the house temp.
Thanks,
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| | theduke03
| "Re(2):Honeywell CT3611 non heat oump wiring" , posted Mon 3 Mar 19:58
Hard to say from here but I would expect the supply temp to stabilize at some temp until the heat satisfies. Also heaters may be coming on in stages. Do you have a meter? Howbout that filter/coil? Make, model, and serial# of your air handler and Electric heat section would also be helpful.
You can't put a price on comfort! Be Safe.
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| | darrink
| "Re(3):Honeywell CT3611 non heat oump wiring" , posted Mon 3 Mar 22:38
I do have a meter, and I believe the heaters are coming in stages and dropping out and starting over. The filter (Pleated type) and coil look fine, there is plenty of air coming out of the registers. I removed the Honeywell Tstat and replaced it with the Hunter to see if it made a difference, but it did not. I know it worked with the Hunter and the air from the registers blew hot and did seem to stabilize.
I really do appreciate your help. I am pretty good with most things mechanical, and do work on commercial refrigeration units running 404A on Carbon Dioxide vessels, but I have limited experience with residential heat. It does not look complicated. There appears to be overloads on each element, the elements themselves, a circuit board and the 24VAC transformer. I have listed the model and serial number you requested below.
Air Handler:
Carrier
Model: FC4BNF048
Serial Number: 2798A21590
Electrical Heating Unit with Integral Control:
(W4Y2002)
Warren Technologies
Model: KFAEH0601F20-W
Serial Number: 78126-011-2E
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| | Houston204
| "Re(4):Honeywell CT3611 non heat oump wiring" , posted Mon 3 Mar 22:49
3M pleated filters may restrict too much airflow for your system. Try removing the filter and running it for an hour. If your problem improves, use a less restrictive filter.
Are you able to see the inlet side of your coil?
A static pressure measurement would help verify proper airflow.
"Tip of the Day" Remember to remove power first.
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| | darrink
| "Re(5):Honeywell CT3611 non heat oump wiring" , posted Tue 4 Mar 20:27
I found the fiberglass filter last night and installed it. So far so good. Thanks again for everyones help.
Darrin
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| | darrink
| "Re(5):Honeywell CT3611 non heat oump wiring" , posted Mon 3 Mar 23:19
Yes, I can see the inlet side of the coil. I do not have a tool to measure static air flow over the coil. The filter is a 3M, so I have removed it. I thought I still had an NOS fiberglass filter here, but I couldn't find. It should take long to figure out if it' the filter causing the problem. I will let you know tomorrow how it turns out.
Thanks,
Darrin
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| theduke03
| "Re(1):Honeywell CT3611 non heat oump wiring" , posted Mon 3 Mar 18:09
If the electric elements are cycling on and off then I'd say they're overheating. How does your filter look? If clean how does the a/c coil look? May be dirty. The blower is supposed to run until the setpoint is reached and for a short time after. That stat will work fine.
You can't put a price on comfort! Be Safe.
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