York Diamond leaks - http://www.hvacmechanic.com/ Forums
Original message
| tommyandcathys
 |  "York Diamond leaks"
, posted Thu 4 Sep 13:34  
We were on vacation for about a month and after returning late one night I came downstairs and noticed a puddle of water under my furnace. I thought that it was just condensation overflow. The small draft motor was running and I could hear the refrigerant circulating but the blower had stopped. I cleaned up the mess, blew out the drip pan and drain, and opened the furnace panels. In the lower panel where the control board is there was a small amount of water in the base. The water appeared to have come down through the blower motor basket. When looking at the control board some of the resistors are corroded, but I know that didn’t happen overnight. With all of the water dried, I tried to turn on the AC. The compressor outside turns on fine. I can hear the coils filling with refrigerant, however it sounds like there is air in the lines. The blower motor however never kicks on. At first the status light was blinking 9 times which indicates reversed power leads. I did not remove any wires, so I assumed this was related to water on the board. I took the capacitor out it was wet on the outside, but it looks fine. It is not swollen or popped. The status light does not flash 9 times anymore. When I try to power up the system, the status light turns on red and then goes off. The motor still does not start. I tried to turn on the heater, and the pilot would not light. I worked last season. The inside of the unit is clean and it was serviced about May of last year.
These are my thoughts:
The control board is fried and that is why the motor will not turn on. While I was testing sometimes the draft motor would kick on and run while the coils were filling with refrigerant. Also, I think this is why the ignitor will not light the burners.
The capacitor is shorted. I could not find anywhere to get it tested, but it looks OK.
Low Freon: The way that the Freon filled the coils, sounded as if there was air in the lines. If I leave the compressor on for a long time without the blower running the lines will turn white with frost. Is this normal.
I called a tech to explain, but was told I should just buy a new furnace. In leiu of having them come to my house and charge me to tell me that, I thought I would ask here first.
Thank you for your assistance.
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Replies:
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| tommyandcathys
| "Re(1):York Diamond leaks" , posted Thu 4 Sep 18:17
Thank you for your response.
I connected the motor white and black wires to a outlet and the motor comes on.
I tried connecting the voltmeter to the neutral and cool prongs (where the white and black wires came from) on the control board. I was getting several wierd results.
For all tests I had the AC on cool and the door switch pushed in:
For the first test I tested the board only with the motor disconnected. It fluctuated somewhere between 500-600.
Next I had the motor connected to 115 and tested the bare prongs on the board. It showed 150v.
Then I connected the motor wires to the board checked the voltage. It started out at 50 and went down to 0.
Would it be best to just replace both the board and the capacitor? If I test the resistance between the two prongs on the capacitor it is about 35. I have never been able to make it discharge by shorting out the two prongs. Don't know if that means anything or not, just read it on some sight.
I am running the AC know with the motor rigged to see if the lines frost over. They appear to be ok so far.
Thanks again for your response.
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| oldmangobles
| "Re(1):York Diamond leaks" , posted Thu 4 Sep 16:14
you need to grt the indoor blower motor before you can check the freon charge.yes,it will frost up if the blower motor does not work.if you have a voltmeter you can check voltage off the board to the blower motor.make sure the door switch in the lower compartment is pushad in.try turning the fan switch at tht t-stat and see if you get power from the common and cool off the board.these two wires should come from the motor to the board.if you have power and the motor turns freely when not energized,replace the capacitor(that's the best test).if you have no power off the board to the motor the board is probably bad.once the blower is running,you will get a better idea if you are low on refrigerant.
old man mike
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| | oldmangobles
| "Re(2):York Diamond leaks" , posted Fri 5 Sep 19:49
if the motor runs directly connected to 115V but not when connected to the board,it sounds like a bad board.
old man mike
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