TRANE Clicking Noise

Problems related to residential installations.

- TRANE Clicking Noise

Postby ftldelay » Thu Jan 03, 2013 11:39 pm

When the unit started clicking (both inside and outside), I set the thermostat to have the fan on and the heat off. The clicking stopped immediately and the fan kept running. As soon as I turned the heat back on, it started clicking again. Also, if both inside and outside units are clicking and I turn up the temperature on the main thermostat, when it reaches a certain point (a few degrees higher than the current temp), the thermostat will click and the indoor unit will stop clicking. The outdoor unit will still be clicking and doing it's power dip routine.

I looked at the thermostat wiring and tried to compare it to the junction box wiring, but am having trouble making sure it's right. Maybe the thermostat is wired wrong and causing the issue? The thermostat is a RiteTemp 6022 (a Google search will take you to their site and an install guide). I have wires connected to the C, O, W2, Y, RC, and G terminals on it. The main unit's junction box has wires connected to R, O, B, G, T, W1, and Y. The instructions mention about auxillary heat, which I have no idea if I have or not. Can you tell that from the schematics or wires mentioned? There is a jumper set on number 8 that on means heat pump or off means "normal". The operation guide says that if the heat pump isn't working properly, I could move the jumper from number 8 to number 6 to temporarily make it auxillary only.

I'll be able to check the outdoor unit's connections, etc. on Saturday. Do you think you'd be able to look into the thermostat wiring for me ?
Thanks again.
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- TRANE Clicking Noise

Postby Freon » Fri Jan 04, 2013 12:40 pm

Your wiring should be like that shown on Pg 20 of the thermostat installation manual. Make sure the wire color at the thermostat is the same color as at the air handler... meaning there have been no different colored wires spliced onto a given wire ( a small 2' section of white wire spliced to the yellow just before the air handler).

Assuming you have all the wire colors correct you will follow the pg 20 wiring. And if you have a leftover wire, we want to use it for the Common connection. That would be the C terminal on the thermostat and the B terminal at the air handler. These designations are explained on pg 24, right hand side of the page. I also confirmed the B as common on the wiring schematic. Turn off power when doing and wiring changes.

I must admit I am confused about the jumper meanings... what is normal. Do you have the jumpers as they are shown on pg 20. If so then we may need to try some changes.

With a heat pump you have a change over valve. That valve switches from heating to AC operation of the condenser. Some manufacturers have the switch when not powered set for cooling. Then to get heat you would apply 24 volts to the switch via the O wire and the valve would switch over. Other manufacturers have the opposite... with no power the change over valve set to heating, power changes it to AC. I think that's what jumper 8 is about.

"when it reaches a certain point (a few degrees higher than the current temp), the thermostat will click and the indoor unit will stop clicking. The outdoor unit will still be clicking and doing it's power dip routine." You are calling for the Aux heat when you hear the thermostat second click. The problem seems to be with the condenser and change over valve setup.

Did this clicking problem happen before the new thermostat
Freon
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- TRANE Clicking Noise

Postby ftldelay » Fri Jan 04, 2013 1:17 pm

The clicking problem was what prompted me to replace the thermostat. It didn't fix the issue, but I felt OK that at least I had a digital thermostat and not the original manual one from 1988.
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- TRANE Clicking Noise

Postby Freon » Fri Jan 04, 2013 3:15 pm

If you can get easy access to the outdoor unit disconnect the changeover valve solenoid wires and tape them together making a good electrical connection. Then see if the indoor clicking continues when you call for heat.

Something is causing a voltage drop. It's either a bad solenoid coil, bad transformer or loose wire connection. It could also be a faulty control board but I hope not. When you check the outdoor control wires to the condenser, run your hand along each wire feeling for a break in the copper hidden by the plastic insulation.
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- TRANE Clicking Noise

Postby ftldelay » Mon Jan 14, 2013 4:01 pm

I checked the indoor main thermostat wires and one of the wires was connected to RC, so I moved that over to RH. The clicking still happened afterwards... I checked a bunch of the wires on the outside unit with a voltmeter (set to test resistance) and they all checked out fine. All were connected snugly and none looked or felt like they were dry rotted/damaged. The weather has been warmer, so the heat hasn't ran much, so I haven't had the clicking issue. It seems to mainly happen at night when it's coldest out. I'm sure when it's colder all day and night, it'll click like crazy. If it's not pretty cold out and I crank the heat up, I can't get it to click.
I found the schematics for the outdoor heat pump (it was behind a panel I hadn't removed before) and have scanned them in and added them to the previously posted file (link is below). The control board is referenced as a defrost timer on the schematic (based on the part number on the board). I guess I thought it'd be called something other than that.

w w w .fataldelay.c o m SLASH Trane_Schematics.pdf
ftldelay
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- TRANE Clicking Noise

Postby Freon » Tue Jan 15, 2013 12:15 pm

I wish I had a simple answer. Here is what I am thinking. The voltage in the system is good because when there's the clicking, if you increase the thermostat setting the clicking stops because you're now calling the Aux heat. That's a direct powering of that relay by the thermostat. So when you call for Aux heat the relay stops clicking.

The next question is why does it click during the usual heat pump heating cycle. Something is sending 24 volts erratically to the Aux heat relay. That could be due to a flaky thermostat or a possible control board issue.

Turn off the power and disconnect the Aux heat wire from the thermostat. Replace the thermostat. Turn on power. Now with the power on, call for heat and see if the clicking happens. If the clicking happens the unwanted erratic powering of the Aux relay is coming from the condenser unit. You'll need to closely examine the control board for cold solder joints. I will assume in a defrost cycle you are using Aux heat so the control board will be the power source for the Aux heat relay.
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- TRANE Clicking Noise

Postby ftldelay » Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:51 pm

The clicking started up a few minutes ago (it's gotten colder out than it's been recently), so I turned off the power, disconnected the W2 wire from the thermostat (2nd stage heat or heat pump auxiliary heat according to the thermostat manual), turned power back on and turned the heat up. After a few minutes, the heat kicked on (I think the thermostat has a 4 minute delay built in) and started clicking again. I powered it off, reconnected the wire, powered it on, and turned the heat back to it's normal temperature. After a few minutes or so, it came on and started clicking again (which I expected). The only constant I think I'm seeing is that it clicks when it gets colder outside. Would it be possible that the cold is causing solder to shrink in the defrost timer board and making it click ? I looked around online and found a used defrost timer board on eBay for $50. Do you think it's likely enough to be the problem to warrant the risk of buying one ?
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- TRANE Clicking Noise

Postby Freon » Sat Jan 19, 2013 11:23 am

I hate to throw parts at a problem.
First, there should be a control wire coming from the outside condenser circuit board to the Aux heat relay. Mark it then disconnect that wire from the Aux heat relay. Now call for heat and listen carefully to the outdoor condenser unit for clicking. If you hear clicking then the problem is either the control board or a short in the changeover valve solenoid (assuming the solenoid is energized for heating).

If you heat the clicking, I would remove the outdoor control board and write down the exact part number in case you need to replace it. Then very carefully examine it for cold solder joints. If you have a small soldering iron, re solder any suspicious connections very carefully. Too much heat will fry ICs.

If you don't hear clicking then let me know.
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