by 4ftBanger » Sat Jun 04, 2011 7:30 am
Window units don't have a lot going on that can go wrong. Many of them only have 1 motor that turns both the fan blades. 2 coils, and a compressor and very simple controls. The main protective control is a temperature switch in the compressor. If the compressor gets hot this switch opens, shutting the compressor motor off until it cools down. Primary causes of a hot compressor are a dirty outdoor coil or a low refrigerant charge. It's less likely, but also possible that the temperature switch is bad and opening at too low of a temperature.
Thermistors are just little temperature sensing resistors. You can measure the resistance - I'd generally expect anywhere from 20,000 to 200 ohms depending on the resistor and the temperature at the time. As long as it's not 0 or OL (infinite) it's usually considered good. As for the board - as long as everything else is working, fans, lights, display, etc I wouldn't suspect the control board until other things have been checked and eliminated. You said that at night the compressor will stay on which seems to indicate a temperature dependent issue. A normal board failure would likely show multiple symptoms and/or consistent behavior. It would be pretty rare for a board to fail and only affect one component (your compressor) intermittently.
To do a really thorough cleaning on a window unit you have to take it out of the window and take the outer metal casing off to get to the back side of the coils. Cleaning from the outside might not be enough to remove the dirt that gets embedded in the back side coil surface. Checking refrigerant charge might be more involved as these units are considered "sealed and non serviceable" the manufacturers typically don't install fittings to connect manifold gauges to. The servicer would have to install piercing valves on the lines to connect the gauges and check the refrigerant charge. It's sometimes cheaper to replace a window unit than to diagnose and repair one...