energy efficient air conditioning tips

Tell us your tips on saving energy and reducing HVAC costs.

energy efficient air conditioning tips

Postby kashiragib » Tue Apr 19, 2011 7:36 am

* Setting the temperature a little higher of around 78-80 degrees Fahrenheit , will you save 6 to 8 percent of your cooling costs for each degree above 78, and most people will be comfortable.
* Use a ceiling fan or portable fan to supplement your air conditioning. A fan can make you feel three to four degrees cooler (and only costs a half-cent per hour to operate) so you can set your thermostat a few degrees higher and save on cooling costs. Use in occupied rooms since fans cool people, not rooms.
* Turn off the air conditioning or set the thermostat up a few degrees when you leave home.
* Be sure your air conditioner is not blocked. A free flowing air conditioner operates most efficiently Be sure the return air grill inside your house is not blocked by furniture or other items. Filters should be checked monthly.
* When air conditioning is on, keep doors and windows closed Turn off kitchen or bathroom exhaust fans when your air conditioning is operating.
* Caulk and weather-strip leaky windows and doors.
* Shade your home from direct sunlight. Use shades, drapes, awnings, trees and shrubs to block the hot sun from heating up your home.
* If you suspect your air conditioning system is not cooling properly, have it checked promptly. A unit that is having operational problems can cause extremely high bills.
* If your air conditioning equipment is older and less efficient, compensate by being extra careful about temperature settings, hours of operation and filter condition.


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- energy efficient air conditioning tips

Postby Captainduckarse » Sat Sep 17, 2011 4:55 pm

With outside temps between 90F & 95F, I kept my 1600 square feet Ranch Home at a comfortable 74 with just (1) 6000 BTU Window A/C & the use of a strategically placed fan !

With Winter coming, I am looking to save $$$ by doing what I did last year & the year before.
Firstly, insulation is best. You can plan all you like for making efficient energy but if it's going out the door you are wasting time & money.
Gas & Electricity have both gone up but I have been saving at least $60 per month by using my old Boiler to get the house to temp with the Baseboard Hot Water Heat system & then dropping the thermostat down & using an electric room heater in the living room at night.
68F is okay during the day when you are doing housework & moving about but when you sit down at 7pm to watch TV, that's when 68F isn't enough.
We burn Gas to get to 73F or 74F, drop the thermostat to 65F overnight but use the electric heater to keep the living room at 74F until bed time.
The big change this year is taking the 1500watt noisy Fan Heater back to Wal-Mart for a refund & buying a DeLonghi oil filled radiator which is an AWESOME heater.
I love this heater. For the same 1500watt investment it sure puts out not only more heat into the room but in my opinion, a much nicer heat.

I have been reading about radiant heating using a high quality Hot Water Heater instead of a Boiler & I am very interested.
I was told that I can't use it with Hot Water Baseboard Heat but, at the risk of sounding like an arrogant prick, I'm not ready to admit defeat just yet.
The lowest water temp setting on my Boiler is 170F & the highest water temp of a Natural Gas Hot Water Heater is 150F so I'm not convinced that a void of 20F will rule the system out for me.
My HWBBH system uses 3/4" Copper Pipes with Aluminum "fins" along the Baseboards to radiate heat into the house. Ever turned your water tank to it's highest setting & grabbing the copper pipe that comes out the Hot side ???... It's DAMN hot !
It may take a little longer to get the house to 74F but I can't believe that a loss of 20F in water temp won't work.
The Math looks good,... A 30,000 BTU water heater vs a 120,000 BTU boiler & a reserve of 30 Gallons of hot water vs only 10 Gallons.
Initial heating of the system & the internal house temp will take a little longer but system temp loss is less due to a higher reserve of hot water, better insulation of the hot water & 1/4 of the Gas consumption.
There is no risk of danger because the Hot Water Heater is only doing what it's designed to do & that's heating & holding hot water.
I would love to hear some views on this but I do know that "if" my Boiler died tomorrow I would absolutely risk the $500 on a new Hot Water Heater. If it doesn't work then I have a new Water Heater,... If it does work I will be saving a lot of money !

Cheers
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Postby westcanadian01 » Mon Oct 17, 2011 5:31 am

The two of you showcases valuable information of how we can conserve energy for our AC
Thanks a lot guys
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Postby moshei » Wed Apr 04, 2012 4:56 am

Very valuable and great information,,,,It could be a big help....
Thanks for sharing..!
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Postby heatseeker » Fri Apr 13, 2012 8:52 am

Summer wear trunks winter wear a jacket and turn everything off.
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Postby jilljohnson876 » Sat Apr 28, 2012 3:02 am

good information given..thank you..
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Postby mr151 » Sat May 05, 2012 2:49 am

I am not buying that a 6000btu a/c is cooling a 1600sq.ft. house ...how many bdrms ,what happens when u turn on the oven,that alone in m,y opinon cancels out those 6000btus am i missing something?... I have no comment towards the heating aspect where i live we dont need heat
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