I am new here. I have looked all over the Web for answers and have learned a lot, but my problem still isn't solved. I hope someone here can help.
PLEASE READ THESE DISCLAIMERS -
1. Yes, I know I am in over my head. (Not actually that unusual for me.)
2. Yes, I know that, if the old thermostat had been removed properly, I probably would not be posting here.
3. Yes, I know that connecting the wires on the thermostat incorrectly can damage my system.
4. Yes, I called Hunter tech support, hoping for helpful suggestions on wiring the thermostat I am installing. All the rep did was lecture me about items 1-3 above.
5. I fully understand that I should call an HVAC pro and have him fix my problem. Unfortunately, I was laid off in Feb, and have about $100 to make it for the next ten days.
6. In defense of myself, I have made certain that the thermostat is set to off and cut the power before moving wires. I have been especially cautious with the red (power) wire. At no time has an electrical breaker tripped--inside house, at the main breaker box, or the user accessible breakers on the unit itself.
WITH ALL THAT -
I have a Comfortmaker (PA55/PAPA 3 phase) Heat Pump system (electric), and want to replace my standard thermostat with one that can be programmed for energy savings. The old thermostat was a White-Rodgers 1F86-244. I am attempting to install a Hunter #44132.
I am not certain exactly how the old thermostat was wired because someone trying to help me did not mark the wires carefully, relying instead on memory. Enough said.
So, here is what I did in hooking up the Hunter programmable thermostat. There are two switches on the circuit board (back of display). I set them for electric and heat pump.
Five wires come out of the wall. Red, yellow, green, white, and blue.
a. The wiring connection diagram from the heat pump's manual indicates that
red (power) goes to RC, */RC *
yellow(compressor) to Y,
green (fan) to G,
white (elec heat acc) to W,
and blue (com) to C
b. The instructions that came with the thermostat are not very helpful in my situation, and I have already mentioned that tech support was a waste of time. The closest diagram to my system is for a multi-stage heat pump. It shows connections for eight wires instead of the five I have. If I have sorted the information properly, this is what the thermostat's instructions -
red to RC */RC *
yellow to Y
green to G
white to Aux/E
and blue to O
I have tried both these configurations, as well as configurations placing the blue wire at B rather than O. In all cases, I received the same result.
--When I move the selector from off to cool, I hear a click and an icon of a fan appears on the display. My system has a delay, but after that delay, the blower starts up, sending a good volume of air through the registers. The problem is that the air is not cooled. It is ambient temp, not heated by the unit.
--I haven't tested the heat function today, but it seemed to work fine last night. (I waited to test it until after the ambient air temp was below 85 F.)
So, I am trapped in my bedroom, where I have a window AC unit. It is 89 F in my living room right now. Needless to say, I haven't gotten many chores done today.
I am considering opening up the HVAC unit in order to see how the low voltage wires are connected at the unit. I would, of course, turn off all power to the unit before I even find my screwdriver. Any thoughts on whether this step is likely to be useful?
I would very much appreciate any suggestions that might get me out of this mess. If what I have written convinces you that I have fried my AC, is there some test or observation that would confirm said friedness?
Thanks in advance.